Stories from the rose valley

The Rose is a symbol of the heart, its sublime fragrance draws us deep 
into the remembrance and reality of the heart, 
and why roses are given as an expression of love. 
The heart does not know depression, it is only joy and love.


“stat rosa pristina nomine, nomina nuda tenemus” 
- Umberto Eco, Name of The Rose


Roses and Clays

This Cream-Bar gathered in the name of the rose. Last summer, I collected rose petals from my grandma's garden. First they were naturally dried. Then I infused them in oil bath two weeks before this gathering. I decided to use Rice Bran Oil for the infusing process, because of its anti-aging and preserving qualities. Since centuries in Asia, Rice Bran Oil has been secret weapon for healthy skin. After the infusion, I left the oil solution to rest in my dark kitchen closet. In glass jar I strained the oil infusion from the rose petals. We decided to create from the infusion Rose-mint lip balm. For first time we decided to create concealer. Making concealer was test of color-texture mixing craft. At this point our gathering turned into painting club. Through the clay research i found about the amazing healing properties clay carry, which i want to share with you.


With my Rose guardians after applying the lip balm and concealer

High rose vibrations

About roses much has been written. Symbol of love, strength, purity, beauty, envy and wealth, the rose is Queen of the Flowers. Rose is well known for its healing properties. Soothing our largest body organ, the rose has inflammatory, antibacterial characteristics and is antioxidant rich in vitamin c. Due to its diuretic properties it acts as blood purifier and toxins remover. Roses are know for its depression, anxiety and even cancer healing benefits. Mixed in waters, teas, cocktails and ice-creams, the rose has been blooming luxury symbol through the ages.

One rose in particular is best known in the perfume industry. Rosa Damascena is hybrid from Rosa Gallica and Rosa Moschata. The Damask Rose has probably its origins from Damscus Syria and is cultivated flower. There are summer and autumn rose sorts. Damask Rose is cultivated in large valley south in Bulgaria. For me, this is the rose of roses, so rich in oil and delicate in aroma. In my twenties after accident i landed in middle of the Rose Valley in Bulgaria. Below the Stara Planina mountain spreads the Rosovata Dolina. End of June is the rose harvest and Rose Festival time. There are mineral baths, which could heal locomotoric deseases and nervous system ailments. I rested there for some time in autumn healing my elbow, which amazingly serves me fully ever after.

Roses have highest vibrational frequency, they are great anti depressant remedy and can change up to 90% of your DNA. Most essential oil frequences start at 52 Hz and reach a maximum vibration of 320 Hz, which is the vibration of Damask Rose Oil. This oil emanates the highest energy vibration of all known oils. Studies have proven that a drop of essential oil placed on a human foot, can deliver its information into each and every cell in your body within 21 minutes. Imagine the power of using a skin care like that is based on 100% pure and natural Damask Rose Oil and using it even just once a day.




"Rose (oil) acts upon the nervous system and tends to vitalisation, 
and to the removal of depression, and symptoms of debilitation; 
it increases the will to live." 
- Alice A. Baley, Letters on Occult Meditation, p. 264


Nina adding rose infused oil to the fireproof bowl, under the instructions of Dino and by Lolla's strict supervision.

Make the Rose Infused Oil

Fill jar with rose petals until it is half to three-quarters way full. The size of the jar will depend on how many flowers you have. For a small amount, use a small jar and for bigger amount, larger jar would be needed. Precision isn't that important at this step. You will be basically filling some type of container about half to three-quarters with dried rose petals and then cover it with oil.

Which type of oil you use is up to you. I used Rice Bran oil, for its anti-aging properties. Olive oil and sunflower oils can be suiting for lip balm. But also Avocado Oil, Sweet Almond Oil or Apricot Oil will work well. Here is table with oil properties to visualize better their healing effects.



Denitsa and Nina filling tin can forms 
with ready hot lip-balm mixture.


Choose the SLOW or QUICK METHOD

For the slow way, cover the top of your jar with oil and petals with couple layers of cheesecloth and secure it with a rubber band. Place the oil in a cabinet and let it sit for 3 to 4 weeks.

For the fast way, set the jar gently into a pan with about 10 cm of water and heat it over medium heat. Keep the burner on and let the oil jar stay in the heated water for one to two hours before removing.

After you've completed one of those methods, go ahead and strain the oil to use it in your lip balm. You can also let the oil sit in the jar longer in your dark cabinet. Another option would be to strain and then repeat the infusion steps with new batch or rose petals, but the same oil you just finished infusing. This is called double infusion.

Mixing potions on slow water bath


The shelf life of your oil is about a year. Store in cool and dark place, well sealed in pure form. When product changes color, texture condition and / or starts smelling funky, throw the product away.



Rose Peppermint Lip Balm Recipe

1 tbs Shea butter (or other such as avocado, cocoa or mango butter)
2,5 tbs rose infused oil (premade, see previous recipe how to make)
1/2 tbs beeswax (or candelilla wax 1/2 tbs)
powdered alkanet root (for color)
15 or drops of peppermint essential oil (or other such as sweet orange, rose or lillies)

Pour tiny amount of the required rose infused oil into small bowl or cup and mix the alkanet root powder until it forms thick paste like mixture. This will be used for adding natural color if desired.

Place all the remaining oils, wax and butter in a heat proof jar or measuring cup. Set this down into a pan filled with 10 cm of water and bring it to simmer. Heat it until the wax and Shea butter are melted. Remove from heat and stir in the alkanet paste tiny portion at time, until the desired color is reached. Add peppermint essential oil and then pour mixture into tubes, tins or palm sliders.

Rose-mint lip balm was great success and really easy to make. It cools quickly and gives your labium not too greasy nourishing velvet touch. While biting on our sinful lips, slurping teas and potent wines and munchin on home prepared cookies and cakes, we decided to get on with our second project for the day.



The concealer art class


My friend Lolla asked if we are able to create concealer. After some research on the topic i find out several recipes and decided to stick with the simplest one found on Wellness Mamma. I already had the Zink Oxide from sun screen bar making and just had to get us some extra clays. On my shelf I found Kaolin Clay, Aztec Clay and Earth Clay. I felt that as color we would need green in order to be able to correct skin redness. 

From my research on the topic, I found about French Green Clay and its antibacterial healing properties. This new for me French Green Clay ignited curiosity of researching more about clays and their amazing properties. From my childhood clays played major role in bathing and beauty culture. My granny would teach me how to mix crushed egg shells, yogurt, vitamin b and earth clay for facial mask that i would apply while bathing. Earth clay was commonly used for hair mask in Bulgaria and for healing in mud-baths or other. Clays are also digested for various of reasons… which i find also very intriguing.

Mixing clays for creamy smooth texture.


My concealer on natural light
I will have to add here that we had trail and error with the mixture and ended cooking double portion, because first one became too powdery. On the second batch we mixed one spoon less Zink Oxide, for more moisturizing texture. For the coloration process we used Cocoa Powder, Kaolin Clay, French Green Clay, Curcuma and sweet Red Pepper. Yes, some of the products came straight from my kitchen cupboard, but we had to improvise in order to match skin tones. Each of us had to mix their own potion adding accordingly more brown, yellow, green or red colors. Slowly mixing these different ingredients as color tint, until desired shade was reached. This was rather experimental task and we took the time to play around. I suggest to be done on day light and mirror comes handy for facial testing. Please keep in mind this additional ingredients are our own invention. We don't take responsibility for any skin rashes or other complains.


Concealer Recipe


Ingredients:

2 teaspoon of Argan and Jojoba Oils
1 teaspoon of Shea butter
1/2 teaspoon emulsifying wax
1 tablespoon Aloe Gel
1 teaspoon Witch Hazel
2 tablespoons Zinc Oxide Powder (non nano and uncoated)

And these additional ingredients for color and coverage:

- Kaolin Clay, Earth Clay or Bentonite Clay
- Organic Cocoa Powder
- Mica powder for shimmering effect

Directions:

1. Melt the first three ingredients in a double boiler until completely blended.

2. Once melted, add the Aloe Gel and Witch Hazel and whisk to combine.

3. Remove from heat and add the Zink Oxide and clays. The Zinc Oxide in this recipe will help with creating the desired consistency and coverage - more Zink Oxide makes a thicker paste and gives greater coverage.

4. Add Cocoa Powder a tiny pinch at a time until desired color is reached. Add Mica Powder and other coloring agents as desired. After every addition mix properly. You will want the color to be lighter than your skin tone, so it blends and lightens.

5. Test the color and coverage on your forehead and inner arm to make sure you've achieved the right tone for your skin and the right consistency for best coverage results.

As usual, store all final products in cool dry place, or for longer lasting results in the refrigerator. More about how to make natural make up contouring according to your face type is well explained here.



Conclusion about my concealer


Well, well, well. After few days kept in refrigerator, i decided to test my little batch of concealer. First thing i noticed was the texture not smoothly covering the skin. I dabbed gently more concealer substance over my face, to find out that is only creating unpleasant traces. The concealer could not cover as desired, unless really massaged onto the skin. Not to mention the strange odor that hit my nose soon after. I suppose the mixture of spices, cocoa and clays with Argan Oil was not pleasant after all. In general i do not prefer organic Argan Oil into my face products. It has rather strong aroma. In conclusion i would suggest to test another recipe next time or purchase natural coloring ingredients. Happy testing! Please share and comment how did your experiments turned out. 


Always write the production date and store in refrigerator for longer use.


Links:

Science and beauty of Roses: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2225411015000954

The Intriguing World of Raw Ingredients: https://katjakokko.com/en/the-intriguing-world-of-raw-ingredients-rose/

Reading Books "Magical and Ritual Use of Perfumes": https://books.google.de/books?id=ksGRbzob-6MC&pg=PA66&lpg=PA66&dq=bulgarian+soap+rituals&source=bl&ots=tPKodIbhlz&sig=PtowWxW6EO4Y3bhQk0JaBQW78jk&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjdp7Ha-bbaAhWL2qQKHV2HCroQ6AEIezAI#v=onepage&q=bulgarian%20soap%20rituals&f=false

Bulgarian Rose Products ALTEYA ORGANICS: http://alteyaorganics.com

Bulgarian online store for DIY cosmetic products: https://domashna-kozmetika.com/bg/huma/991-maska-za-lice-zeolit.html

Rice Bran oil and its properties: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.3109/13880209.2011.596206

Sacred healing: http://www.unimedliving.com/healing/sacred-esoteric-healing/the-history-of-sacred-esoteric-healing/the-history-of-sacred-esoteric-healing.html

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